The Best Costa Brava Itinerary: Cami de Ronda, Girona, and Dali Museums in Less Than 2 Weeks

Published on by Art

After our trip to the Cotswolds, we were keen to go on more inn-to-inn hikes. There’s something truly special about the unhurried pace of such holidays, where each step unveils something new around every corner and over every hill. While this mode of travel wouldn’t allow us to pack in as many sights over a few short days, we were more than willing to make this trade-off for the quality of enjoying each step and a well-deserved rest at day’s end.

With numerous long-distance trails to consider, we looked for something off the beaten path, and this is how we discovered Cami de Ronda. This scenic coastal path winds along the Costa Brava in northeastern Spain, connecting quaint villages, pristine beaches, and hidden coves. Originally utilized as a surveillance route by the Guardia Civil to monitor illegal activities like smuggling, it has now become a beloved hiking trail spanning about 100 kilometers (124 miles), typically completed in 10 to 13 days, depending on one’s pace.

Though not without its challenges, including rocky sections, stairs, and steep ascents and descents, it remains manageable for those with average physical fitness. Unlike our hike in England, we decided to carry our backpacks rather than using a luggage transfer service between overnight stops. This proved to be a good choice as it gave us more flexibility to change our plans on the fly.

In addition to the allure of the Cami de Ronda, this region of Spain boasts a wealth of historical and cultural attractions. Hence, we included visits to the enchanting town of Girona where many episodes of Game of Thrones were filmed, The Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres, and Dali House in Cadaqués into our itinerary. While we flew into Barcelona, we decided to forgo spending any time in the city, having explored it on a previous occasion.

We used All Trails application for all the hikes. The application has a complete Cami de Ronda trail map as well as most of the sections, which we did. The links to each trail map are referenced in the itinerary below. Another great source of free digital trail maps is https://www.costabrava-wandern.de/en/category/gr-92-stages/. You can download GPX files for each stage and import these into AllTrails.

We traveled to Costa Brava in late April. The weather can be quite unpredictable in Spain during that time of year. Only a week before our trip, it was sunny with high temperatures. However, we encountered rain and cooler weather, although it improved later. The water was still cold, and only a few brave people ventured in to swim. The hikes would probably be much harder in the hot weather, so we were thankful for the nice breeze, which sometimes turned into a pretty strong wind.

Here is our itinerary:

Below is a map of all the places we visited during our trip (Click here or the map to open Google Maps.)

[googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/embed?mid=1U7A66-JwB0oqq434XIJQQNCMTU5S6rk&ehbc=2E312F&noprof=1&w=640&h=480]

Days 1 and 2 – Girona

We flew into Barcelona airport and took a private car transfer to Girona, which took 1.5 hours. It was a bit expensive, but we had a long flight and were tired. Alternatively, we could have taken a train with the change in Barcelona.

The taxi dropped us right at our hotel (another plus) after navigating narrow streets of the old town. We stayed at Pensió Bellmirall, which is right next to the cathedral and close to everything. It is in the ancient building (some parts of it date back to Roman Empire), and our room had exposed brick. We like the atmosphere and the host, who made us feel at home. There were some downsides, like the plumbing smelled and didn’t work that great, but what can you expect from a two thousand year old house?

Remarkably, we weren’t too tired, so we went for a meal in the nice restaurant near by called Café le Bistrot. After, we explored the city, walking without any purpose and direction.

We climbed the city wall, saw the river with its old bridges and colorful houses, and encountered several churches. We finished the day sitting on the stairs of the cathedral next to relaxing locals and a few tourists who hadn’t left with the daily tours.

On our second day in Girona, we went for a guided tour of the Jewish Quarter and Museum. Our guide was a young women named Ona, who knew a great deal about history of Jews in Girona. She took us around some of the same sights we saw on our first day, but we saw a different side of the city with her commentary.

Ona recommended a restaurant called L’Argada, which turned out to be very good. We finished the day by discovering some more hidden gardens, streets and walls, we were had missed before.

We also bought hiking polls at Intersport Akilia, a sporting store away from the touristy area (20 minutes walk). Since we couldn’t bring the polls with us on the flight (we don’t check in baggage), this was a good investment considering the type of hiking we were about to embark on.

We really enjoyed our time in Girona, and 1.5 days is about the right amount of time to spend there. We visited most of the major sights, but also had a chance to slow down and experience this beautiful town without crowds, which decent upon it during the day on the quick trips from Barcelona.

Here are some recommended sightseeing priorities:

  • Walk Atop Girona’s Ancient City Wall (best city views)
  • Old Quarter
  • Stroll La Rambla de la Llibertat
  • Cathedral of Girona
  • Basílica de Sant Feliu
  • Eiffel Bridge
  • Jewish Quarter and Museum (guided tour)
  • Arab Baths (we didn’t go)
  • Placa de la Independencia (lovely square to people-watch and get some ice cream)

Day 3 – The Dalí Theatre-Museum in Figueres

We planned to start our hike in Cadaqués, but discovered that there is no direct bus from Girona to Cadaqués. Since we had to transfer in Figueres, we decided to visit the famous Dalí Museum on our way. We took a 45-minute train ride to Figueres and walked 20 minutes to the museum. Knowing that tickets often sell out, we purchased them online a few days in advance. For the bus tickets, we used Moventis web site. We saw people buying tickets right at the bus stations, but preferred not to take chances.

The Dalí Theatre-Museum, inaugurated in 1974, is a monument to Salvador Dalí in his birthplace.

Built on the ruins of the former Municipal Theatre, the museum houses the largest collection of Dalí’s works. Dalí himself designed it to be a unique, immersive experience.

We used an audio guide on our phones to learn about the exhibits, as information inside is limited. My favorite piece was “The Christ,” while Tanya had too many favorites to choose from. The entire visit was a surreal experience, showcasing Dalí’s eccentric genius.

After a couple of hours at the museum, we enjoyed a lovely lunch at Bocam restaurant, a Michelin 2021 venue. We had enough time to savor our meal before catching the 4:15 PM bus to Cadaqués, a journey of about an hour.

Day 4 – Hike from Cadaqués to Cap de Creus and back

Our first experience hiking on the Cami de Ronda was a trail from Cadaqués to Cap de Creus, an 8-mile round trip going through the Cap de Creus National Park. We stayed at Hotel Calina, situated in Port Lligat Bay just 164 feet from Salvador Dalí’s fascinating House-Museum. Dali and his wife, Gala spent 50 years living in this house. The hotel is conveniently located right by the trail, though it’s a 10-15 minute uphill and downhill walk to the town.

Despite the heavy clouds, the rain held off, though the wind added some thrill and excitement. Trying hiking poles for the first time made navigating the terrain much easier, especially on the steep sections.

The highlight for Tanya was undoubtedly the abundance of wildflowers along the trail. Each step revealed a new burst of color, which she couldn’t resist capturing with her camera.

Along the trail, we saw a few small and secluded beaches nested between rocky cliffs. We walked to one of them to get closer to restless waves and to snap a few pictures. As we reached Cap de Creus, the easternmost point of Spain, we were rewarded with breathtaking views and a sense of accomplishment (although, you don’t need to hike there as there is a direct bus coming to the same place from the center of Cadaques).

We weren’t hungry yet to try an excellent by all accounts restaurant right by the lighthouse, so we just headed back.

We finished the day with an early dinner at Nord Est restaurant in the harbor, one of the few places open during siesta. We’ve been frustrated with restaurant schedules in Spain throughout our trip. We prefer to eat early, but most restaurants close around 4 PM and don’t reopen until 7 PM or later for dinner.

Days 5 and 6 – Cadaques to Roses

This was too much for us to complete in one day. We decided to split it into two days and planned to spend the night at Hotel Cala Joncols, located about halfway between Cadaqués and Roses, in the middle of nowhere. We were looking forward to staying at this unique place, but unfortunately, bad weather forced us to reconsider. We didn’t think that walking on slippery rocks in the rain was such a good idea. Instead, we extended our stay in Cadaqués, explored the town further.

This unexpected rest day also gave as an opportunity to visit the Dalí House. Although there were no tickets available online, our hotel called the museum in the morning and secured tickets for the last tour of the house.

The next day, we took an early bus to Roses (30 minutes) and walked a couple of miles along Cami de Ronda starting from Roses beachfront to Platja de Canyelles Petites.

In Roses, we stayed at Prestige Mar y Sol. It is located right in the center of the city on the beach promenade. It is a basic hotel, but the breakfast was the best of our entire trip!

Day 7 – Begur to Tamariu (Taxi and Hike)

On the next day, the weather improved slightly, with intermittent rain giving way to periods of sunshine. In the morning, following the best breakfast of our trip so far, a taxi transported us to Tamariu, approximately an hour’s drive from Roses. The taxi stand is right in front of the hotel, and we were able to arrange for this ride the day before.

Since the driver didn’t speak English, we relied on the Microsoft Translator app, which worked seamlessly. I activated the microphone, and the app translated the driver’s words in real time. Along the way, he mainly pointed out grape and apple plantations, and spoke about inexpensive wine and beautiful beaches.

Despite expecting to encounter rain upon arrival, the weather proved rather pleasant. Fortunately, our room at Hotel Hostalillo was ready earlier than official checkin time. We opted to pay a few extra euros for a sea view with a balcony. We loved our room and didn’t want to leave.

Our original plan was to take a taxi to start the hike in Begur and walk to Tamariu (6.8 miles, 4+ hours, https://costabravawalks.com/en/routes/begur-tamariu.html). Since we were unsure about the weather, we decided to hike at least a portion of it starting in Tamariu and going in reverse direction. The trail was breathtaking, possibly one of the best hikes we’ve ever experienced. Although we had read that it might be daunting for those afraid of heights, the path hugged the cliffs, yet was wide enough and equipped with railings, ensuring we never felt in danger.

The scenery kept changing from cliffs to small beaches to lavish villas. Despite only walking 4 miles, the hike took us 2 hours and 40 minutes due to the numerous photo opportunities and the physical challenge posed by the many stairs. Our watch showed we climbed 80 flights.

After the hike, we treated ourselves to some excellent pizza at La Pasta, a beach-side restaurant adjacent to our hotel and talked to the waiter. He told us the villas are owned by some reach folks including the manager of Manchester United.

We finished the day with an excellent dinner at the hotel restaurant. This was one of the best food we had on our trip.

Tamariu was an unexpected gem of a town—quiet, serene, and just what we needed. The peaceful atmosphere and stunning natural beauty provided the perfect escape.

Day 8 – Tamariu to Calella de Palafrugell

The hike to Calella de Palafrugell (https://www.alltrails.com/trail/spain/girona/tamariu-calella-de-palafrugell) involved some technically challenging sections, but we managed through it well and made good time.

The path took us through the diverse landscape. We walked along the rocky and abrupt coastline – of high geological interest – its calm beaches and coves like Cala Pedrosa, crossed holm oak forests, and visited the monumental site of Sant Sebastià de la Guarda with its Iberian town, as well as the Sant Sebastià lighthouse, from which we enjoyed a panorama of the bay of Llafranc and Calella, iconic postcard spots of the Costa Brava.

The trail was busier than the previous day since the weather was nice, sunny, and comfortable. Tanya stopped often to chat with other hikers, who were only too happy to share tidbits about their journeys.

Covering 4.4 miles in 2.5 hours may not sound like a big achievement, but there were stairs, narrow passages, climbing over rocks, and other fun obstacles that slowed us down.

Calella de Palafrugell is a pretty beach town. It was a little busy when we arrived around 3 pm, but the crowds disappeared by 5 pm when we walked along the promenade in search of a place to eat. Breaking the pattern of fancy seafood dinners, we had hamburgers at L’Estret food and liked them!

We originally booked our stay in Hotel Port-Bo, which had excellent reviews. It is a good place to stay on budget, but we decided to splurge a bit and moved to Sant Roc Hotel. We asked for a room with the sea view and didn’t regret our decision.

Day 9 – Jardíns de Cap Roig

We had a rest day in Calella de Palafrugell. Every guide to Calella de Palafrugell talks about Jardíns de Cap Roig. The garden is set against the backdrop of the Mediterranean Sea and features a diverse array of plant species, sculptures, and panoramic views. It was created by the Russian Colonel Nicolai Woevodsky and his English wife, Dorothy Webster, in the early 20th century. They transformed the rugged coastal landscape into a lush garden paradise, incorporating exotic plant species from around the world.

The sun was shining brightly in the morning, so we wasted no time and headed over to the garden. Of course, when I say “we wasted no time”, I don’t mean that we skipped breakfast! The garden is a short 30-minute walk from the town, unfortunately mostly uphill. We had the place to ourselves, and it exceeded our expectations. Our favorite part was the cactus garden with a variety of species we hadn’t seen before.

The garden was quiet and tranquil, and we spent almost an hour on the bench reading and admiring the view of the town below us.

We walked back on Cami de Ronda. We would be taking this trail to Palamos on on the next day, but we still couldn’t resist snapping a few pictures. On the way, we stopped at El Golfet beach and read some more there. Unfortunately, the rain started soon after, and we hurried back to the hotel.


In the evening, we dined at one of the best tapas restaurants we’ve ever been to, Calau. It’s the most popular spot in town, and since they don’t take reservations, it’s best to arrive just before 7:30 PM when they open for dinner. There will already be a line, but with ample seating, you’ll likely get in. Following our waiter’s advice, we paced ourselves with the cold tapas, knowing that new hot dishes would be brought out throughout the evening. This way, we saved room for the next tasty treat that appeared.

Calella de Palafrugell was without a doubt our favorite spot in Costa Brava. There is plenty to do, from hiking to swimming to exploring local attractions. It’s a great home base to spend a couple of days, at least.

Day 10 – Calella de Palafrugell to Palamós

During breakfast, we spotted people swimming at the small beach near our hotel. Encouraged, we decided to join them. Despite the cold water, with determination, we managed a quick dip.

Though tempted to linger on the beach, we had to begin our hike. There are two routes to Palamos. The coastal path, with its many coves, presents a challenging terrain. Alternatively, the Camí de Ronda offers a slightly easier journey. Initially opting for the tougher route, we soon realized it was too much.

Retracing our steps, we traversed forests and fields instead. Of course, even a moderately easy trail had a lot of stairs!

Along the way, we stumbled upon a picturesque beach, Playa El Castell, its tranquility guarded by a hilltop castle.

We ate lunch there, accompanied by a gentle breeze. At the end, we hiked 6 miles in 3 hours and were pretty exhausted.

While Palamos may lack the charm of other towns we’ve explored, we found solace in our hotel, Casa Vincke and a tasty meal at Restaurant L’ Arcada, recommended by our host. Palamos is a fishing town, which explains the freshness of the sea bass and the fish soup we had for dinner.

Day 11 – Palamos to Sant Feliu de Guíxols

This hike was going to be the longest and the most challenging as AllTrails showed it to be around 12 miles (combination of 2 trails, Palamos to S-Agaro and S-Agaro to Sant Feliu de Guíxols), including stairs and walking on sand. We also read some reviews about it and were worried. However, we ended up hiking about 8 miles, cutting through the city to reach the hotel on the final stretch.

The first few miles of the hike were easy as leaving Palamos we passed through several promenades with restaurants, sculptures and flower beds.

The rest of the hike was fun with many small and large beaches and multitudes of hidden coves.

And of course, more stairs.

We felt a bit sad because this was our last Costa Brava hike.

We checked into the nice and quiet hotel Van der Valk Hotel Barcarola, and after some rest, headed to the beach just a block away. There’s a nice promenade leading to a 5-star hotel, so we walked a bit more and took some pictures.

Our hotel hosted a large group of French cyclists and opted to serve a buffet dinner tonight to accommodate the large crowd. The buffet was delicious, including salad, tomato soup with croutons, fish and yummy homemade cantaloupe sorbet.

There is a direct bus from Sant Feliu de Guíxols to Barcelona airport (2 hours), which we took in the morning of our last day and made it with plenty of time to spare before our afternoon flight back to the US.