10 Days in Alaska Kenai Peninsula Itinerary (Anchorage, Seward, Homer)

Published on by Art

The Kenai Peninsula in Alaska spans about 150 miles, offering stunning landscapes, diverse wildlife, and outdoor adventures. Bordered by the Cook Inlet and Gulf of Alaska, it features fjords, mountains, and lakes. Homer, at the southern tip, is known for its arts scene and serves as a gateway to Kachemak Bay State Park. The peninsula is a popular fishing destination, with rivers teeming with salmon.

Our introduction to the Kenai Peninsula happened through The Amateur Traveler podcast. Alaska had been on our bucket list for quite some time, but we were hesitant about opting for a cruise. After some consideration, we decided that a journey to the Kenai Peninsula would be the perfect way for us to experience Alaska.

Below is our itinerary, which follows a standard loop from Anchorage to Seward to Homer and back to Anchorage.

Day 1 – Washington DC to Anchorage

Our journey to Alaska started with a hiccup as our flight from DC faced a four-hour delay due to bad weather. We arrived in Anchorage at midnight and took an Uber to our hotel (Four Points by Sheraton Anchorage Downtown), hoping for some rest.

We didn’t know that Alaska has a unique rule – hotels reliably cancel reservations if you arrive past midnight without calling. We hadn’t called, and we were lucky that the night clerk, Abul, checked us in anyway.

Abul, the night clerk, was excited to learn it was our first time in Alaska. He mentioned this was his favorite time of the year when things aren’t too busy. We asked about the rain, and he said it’s fine – just have good clothes. This advice became a consistent theme throughout our vacation. Locals in Alaska don’t worry about rain; they just put on their Gortex and continue with their day. We followed suit.

Day 2 – Anchorage Day – Flattop Trail

As anticipated, the dawn chorus in Alaska was accompanied by the steady patter of raindrops. Rising early due to lingering East Coast time, we couldn’t help but wonder if this weather would persist throughout our entire journey. Spoiler alert: it didn’t! However, our first Alaskan morning was met with a minor inconvenience at the hotel—breakfast options were meager due to a delayed shipment. A common occurrence in Alaska, though it puzzled us as we hadn’t encountered such shortages elsewhere.

Our next destination was Avis, where we expected a standard SUV but were pleasantly surprised with a Jeep Rubicon! Little did we know, this rugged choice would prove indispensable on the unmaintained, water-filled pothole-ridden roads leading to some of the hiking trails. Ready for any road condition, we set out in our trail-rated truck.

Despite the persistent rain, we ventured to the Tony Knowles Coastal Path by the water.

Initially dampening our plans, the weather began to clear, prompting us to explore Chugach State Park and embark on our first substantial hike—Flattop Mountain. Given the slippery conditions, we wisely chose the easier trail starting at Canyon Road.

The road to the trailhead tested the capabilities of our trail-rated truck, making us appreciate the decision to upgrade from a regular car.

Upon reaching the trailhead, the rain ceased, and the clouds parted, revealing our first glimpse of the majestic mountains.

During our ascent, we encountered a moose mere feet away and struck up conversations with two local hikers. They shared insights into Alaskan life, emphasizing their passion for fishing and even showed us pictures of their impressive catches—sold to distributors for a mere $1.40 per pound!

The trail unfolded in a series of switchbacks, at times leading us through the fog, which, as it turned out, was actually walking among the clouds. Once above the clouds, the panorama of peaks and the bay unfolded before us.

Post-hike, we returned to the Tony Knowles trail, rented bikes, and cycled to the airport, where we marveled at planes taking off and landing mere feet above our heads—a spectacle described by our grandson as “venny, venny, cool.”

For dinner, we opted for the closest eatery to the hotel—Tent City. Here, we savored our first of many chowders, a crisp salad, and Alaska’s renowned salmon, setting the culinary tone for the gastronomic adventures yet to unfold.

Day 3 – Anchorage – Little O’Malley Peak Trail

The following morning greeted us with the familiar sound of rain, but the weather forecast promised a positive turn after the initial obligatory “blah.” Contemplating various trail options within a one-hour drive from Anchorage, we found ourselves indecisive. Seeking expert advice, we headed to the Anchorage Log Cabin Visitor Center.

There, we encountered a seasoned local hiking enthusiast who shared some captivating photos from his hikes. Trusting his credibility, we followed his recommendation to return to Chugach State Park and tackle the challenging Little O’Malley Peak Trail. This trail, rated as “Hard” on AllTrails, spans 4.5 miles with a 1,500 ft elevation gain. Starting at the Glen Alan parking lot, we observed a few brave souls heading up to Flattop the hard way, opting for a different adventure.

Choosing the Powerline Pass Trail to reach O’Malley, we discovered that the seemingly mundane power lines belied a stunning trail. The path meandered through a valley surrounded by picturesque peaks.

After a brief stint on the trail, we turned left to traverse the valley and ascend one of the adjacent mountains, encountering numerous switchbacks along the way.

Despite the strong wind, our rain jackets and pants offered ample protection, and the occasional appearance of the sun amid rolling clouds signaled a rain-free day—an ideal Alaskan September experience.

Our hike extended beyond the planned 4.5 miles, thanks to a chance meeting with a friendly local armed with a sizable revolver. His suggestion of hiking an extra 2 miles past the summit promised captivating views of lakes. While we attempted to follow his advice, we turned back before reaching the viewpoint. The summit itself offered a captivating alpine plateau resembling a bowl, and the return journey, while lengthy, remained relatively straightforward, with a few slippery rock challenges.

With the day still embracing beauty, we resisted the idea of returning to the hotel. Tanya proposed exploring Kinkaid Park in the city. Initially expecting a small city park, we quickly realized that Alaska operates on a grand scale. The park’s expansiveness led us on an additional 3-mile hike, culminating in a surreal beach.

On our return, we nearly stumbled upon a moose, adding an unexpected wildlife encounter to our day.

We concluded this adventure-packed day with a delightful dinner at the 49th State Brewery, savoring the diverse flavors of Alaska and recounting the day’s remarkable experiences.

Day 4 – Drive to Seward

Embarking on our journey through the scenic Kenai Peninsula, we set out from Anchorage around 9 am bound for Seward. Our first pitstop was Beluga Point, where, unfortunately, we didn’t catch a glimpse of any whales.

Undeterred, we embarked on an easy hike to Byron Glacier, immersing ourselves in the stunning landscapes.

Our route then led us through a tunnel to Whittier, where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch before venturing off in search of the elusive Emerald Cove. We drove for several miles on a road with the sign, which said: “Proceed at your own risk”. We were not worried about the road condition, safe in our rugged SUV.

The journey back to Seward was punctuated by a stop at a Salmon viewing point, a mesmerizing spectacle where various types of salmon engage in their life cycle – laying, fertilizing eggs, and eventually succumbing to nature’s course.

A visit to the Alaska Conservation Center introduced us to the only friendly bears in the state, their amicable demeanor owed to a steady diet of salmon. The center also afforded us the opportunity to observe majestic wolves and bears in their natural habitat.

The remainder of the drive to Seward was nothing short of breathtaking, each scenic vista unfolding like a postcard.

As night descended, we found ourselves checking into a rustic cabin, embracing the next two days without Wi-Fi. The prospect of digital detox loomed, but with the promise of serene landscapes and immersive experiences, we were ready to savor the moments that lay ahead.

With the day’s adventures behind us, we capped it off with a delectable dinner at The Cookery, savoring the flavors of Alaska as we prepared for a technology-free interlude in our cozy cabin. How would we survive without Wi-Fi for two days? The answer awaited us in the tranquility of Kenai Peninsula’s natural wonders.

Day 5 – Seward – Exit Glacier and the boat tour

We kicked off the day with a quick hike to Exit Glacier. Since we had a cruise booked for 12:30 pm, time was limited. The hike turned out to be amazing, one of the best experiences. It was a bit disheartening to see how much the glacier had retreated.

The observation area at the end of the trail used to be where the glacier reached in 2005, and now it’s another half mile up the mountain. Despite this, we enjoyed the hike so much that we decided to return after the tour.

Before hitting the trail, we made a pit stop to buy bear spray since the area was known for bears. The store clerk reassured us that it was a wise decision. When we inquired about recent incidents, she mentioned that no one had been killed by a bear this year… yet. Equipped with the spray, we felt more secure.

While we usually steer clear of boat tours, Kenai Fjords Wildlife Tour was highly recommended as the top thing to do in Seward by nearly everyone. And they were spot on!

The scenery was breathtaking, and we spotted various wildlife, including otters, mountain goats, puffins, and dozens of killer whales. Despite the captain’s warning that many animals had already left the area, luck was on our side.

The four-hour cruise flew by, and we returned to the park for some additional time near the glacier. The sun was high above, making photography challenging, but it didn’t matter. We were simply content to be in the presence of such natural beauty.

Day 6 – Seward – Tonsina Creek Trail

Waking up to rain, we took our time with breakfast, hoping for better weather. Eventually, we decided to visit the Alaska SeaLife Center, a suggestion from yesterday’s cruise captain, considering it a good rainy-day activity. Surprisingly, the rain paused as we left the cabin, so we extended our plans to Lowell Point. Our host recommended the Tonsina Creek hike starting there.

As we reached the parking lot, the rain returned, but it was too late to turn back. Remembering advice to embrace the outdoors rain or shine, we tested our rain gear.

The hike, labeled as moderate and expected to take less than 2 hours, had reviews mentioning bear sightings at the creek. Despite having bear spray, Tanya was a bit concerned. Initially alone on the trail, our spirits lifted when another hiker joined, carrying a small handgun that inexplicably made us feel safer. The effectiveness of a handgun against a brown bear was a question best left unasked. We later got to know this friendly gentleman, discussing bears, salmon, and world politics. He even pointed out bear tracks and scat, but fortunately (or unfortunately), we didn’t encounter any bears on the hike.

The trail concluded at a serene beach, where we met a French student camping nearby. Tanya had a delightful chat with her about our favorite European country.

The hike took longer than expected, filled with stops for salmon watching, beach strolls, and engaging discussions with strangers—all while remaining vigilant for any potential bear encounters. Hungry, we enjoyed our sandwiches at Lowell Point beach, then drove back to Seward for dinner and a stroll along the shore, witnessing fishermen catching salmon right off the beach.

We even spotted a friendly otter just a few feet away in the water. While we never made it to the SeaLife Center, the beautiful weather convinced us to stay outdoors.

Day 7 – Drive to Homer

I am reporting in from the lovely Juneberry Lodge in Homer, where we’ll be calling home for the next three days. This place is truly remarkable, offering a stunning view of the bay, well-kept landscaping, and an overall cozy atmosphere. Our hostess provided us with a thorough rundown of Homer and all the exciting things to do around here. We’re already in love with this place.

Today’s journey took us from Seward to Homer, a scenic three-hour drive with a few stops along the way. In Cooper Landing, we observed fishermen along the Russian River.

At the Ninilchik Russian Orthodox Church, perched above the ocean with a charming cemetery adorned with wildflowers, we took a moment to appreciate the serene surroundings.

Our next pause was at the Baycrest Outlook, offering our first glimpse of Homer. Driving to the end of Alaskan Highway 1, we reached The Spit, the official “end of the road,” where the highway literally concludes at the boat pier.

The rest of the day unfolded with leisurely walks along the beach and exploration of the boardwalk establishments still open.

Our host at Juneberry Lodge (highly recommended!), Marsha, directed us to Captain Pattie’s Fish House for dinner, which was very good.

It was a day of relaxation, devoid of bears, killer whales, or strenuous hikes. Time seems to be taking a leisurely pace here in Homer, making it the perfect place to savor the moment.

Day 8 – Homer – Hike to glacier lake

The day unfolded leisurely, starting with a lengthy breakfast and engaging conversations with Marsha, who shared captivating facts and stories. As the clouds gradually dispersed, we ventured into town, armed with a 1 pm reservation for a water taxi that would transport us across the bay for a hike to a glacier lake. With some time to spare, we explored Bishop Beach and embarked on a brief hike around what turned out to be more of a marsh than a lake—Beluga Lake.

The expansive beach, magnified by the low tide, offered a serene setting for us to enjoy lunch from Two Sisters bakery. Later, we boarded a small boat for the water taxi journey to Kachemak Bay State Park.

The waters of the bay were choppy, and we marveled at the two fellow passengers with kayaks, wondering how they would manage in such conditions.

Upon reaching the other side, we arrived at a tranquil cove perfect for kayaking. Originally intended for Glacier Point, we disembarked at the beginning of Saddle Trail due to high waves.

Signs along the trail warned of frequent bear encounters, a concern we had read about in reviews. Meeting fellow hikers who confirmed a mama bear with two cubs in the vicinity, we teamed up and proceeded cautiously, making noise to alert the bears to our presence.

The lake and glacier proved to be a serene haven, and we were captivated by their perfect tranquility.

Opting to spend our time there, we explored for two hours, capturing the beauty in photographs.

On the return journey to the boat, we inadvertently came too close to the cubs, prompting the mom to move closer and emit warning sounds. We quickened our pace, clutching our bear sprays, but safely made it back to the boat.

The boat ride back was a thrilling experience as we stood at the front, cutting through the waves, exhilarated by the rise and fall of the vessel. It was a day filled with nature’s wonders and a touch of adventure, leaving us with memories of bears, tranquil lakes, and the invigorating sea breeze.

Day 9 – Homer – Diamond Creek Trail and More

Embarking on the Diamond Creek Trail, we were prepared for some mud, but the reality exceeded our expectations. Reviews on AllTrails had hinted at the trail’s muddy conditions, and indeed, it was THAT muddy.

The morning drizzle ceased as we reached the trailhead, winding through the woods. Along the way, we encountered only one other adventurous family with a kid and three dogs. Negotiating some slippery sections, we marveled at how they managed with the dogs.

Reaching the beach was a rewarding effort, especially as the low tide allowed us to explore intriguing rocks that were typically submerged.

Our next stop was the Norman Lowell Gallery, home to the renowned local artist celebrated for capturing Alaska’s natural beauty. Though over 90 years old, Norman Lowell resides in a nursing home, while his wife still lives next to the gallery. We had the privilege of being the sole visitors, immersing ourselves in the breathtaking artwork.

Our next destination was the Russian village of Nikolaevsk, where we hoped to encounter residents dressed in traditional Russian attire and engage in conversations with them. We were unfortunately unable to spot anyone in the village.

A visit to a traditional Russian church under renovation was followed by a stop at the local store and café, Samovar. Despite the sign indicating openness, a note prompted us to call Nina for purchases. On the menu were borscht, pelmeni, and potato-filled pirozhki, but we opted to pass.

On the return journey, we paused at Archer Point to enjoy the ocean views and indulge in sandwiches from Two Sisters Bakery, a newfound addiction. After a brief respite at the lodge, we dined at The Chartroom restaurant on the Spit, enjoying the spectacle of seals and birds in the water. While the location was incredible, the food was only average.

Day 10 – Homer – Rainy day

“Rain, rain, go away! Come again another day!” Today, bad weather had no intention of listening, so we decided to embrace it. We kicked off the day with a lengthy breakfast, accompanied by more captivating stories from Marcia and her exceptional pancakes made from a 150-year-old sourdough starter (Tanya even contemplated taking some starter home).

Our first stop was the farmers market, which, despite the dreary and rainy weather, was bustling with activity.

Undeterred by the rain, people walked their dogs and strolled with their kids along the beach, creating a unique rainy-day experience.

We explored souvenir stores, resisting the urge to buy anything, but I couldn’t resist capturing some cool pictures of small planes—apparently, some adventurous souls use them to witness bears fishing for salmon.

Our next destination was Two Sisters, where we stocked up on sandwiches and other delectable baked goods, ensuring our provisions would last until next year. However, we realized there was another highly recommended cafe we hadn’t visited—Wild Honey. Since it was already lunchtime, we had no option but to sample their crepes. We ordered the spiced apple and avocado/chocolate/wild berries varieties, and they were indeed very good!

Day 11 – Girdwood – Mushroom day

Parting ways with Homer was bittersweet, especially after our last breakfast at Juneberry Lodge. Our journey led us to Girdwood, our final destination in Alaska. Known as a bustling ski resort in winter, Girdwood was now peaceful and tranquil in September, drawing visitors for hiking and the panoramic views from the Alyeska mountain tram.

Embarking on the Winner Creek trail, we stumbled upon a mushroom paradise, a delightful surprise.

Later, we ascended the tram to Alyeska mountain, treated to breathtaking views above the clouds. On our descent, we encountered a black bear, and we couldn’t help but feel relieved to be safely elevated in the tram rather than on the ground.

Day 12 – Drive back to Anchorage

Before leaving Girdwood, we hiked a very short Virgin Creek Falls trail (only 0.5 miles) to a nice waterfall.

As we made our leisurely way to Anchorage for our later afternoon flight home, we explored options for hikes along the route but couldn’t find any that fit our timeframe.

The highlight of the day occurred when we decided to pull off the road for a pit stop and unexpectedly stumbled upon a bear. The bear was curiously investigating another parked car, and we observed from a safe distance. However, the tranquility was disrupted when a minivan pulled in, and an enthusiastic group of tourists hurriedly approached the bear for close-up pictures. The bear, clearly unamused, started making frustrated noises, serving as a stern warning. Thankfully, the overzealous photographers retreated without any casualties.

This encounter served as a fitting conclusion to our Alaskan journey, adding an unexpected and memorable chapter to our adventure.