This was my second trip to Greece, this time with my son Greg. A few years ago, Tanya and I spent a wonderful 10 days on Greek Islands. This time around, Greg and I decided to explore the mainland.
Table of Content
- Day 1 – Athens
- Day 2 – Delphi
- Day 3 – Drive to Olympia
- Day 4 – Olympia and Nafplio
- Day 5 – Day trip to Mycenae, more Nafplio
- Day 6 – Epidavros
- Day 7 – Mystras
- Day 8 – Rest and going back to Athens
Day 1 – Athens
We began our journey in Athens and spent our first day visiting all of the important sights. For me, it was a fascinating experience to return to a place I had previously visited. I rarely have the opportunity to do so, with notable exceptions such as Paris, London, Lisbon, and now Athens. Visiting a place for the second time allows you to take your time, notice more details, and be more efficient because you have a better sense of what works and what doesn’t. Plus, if you have a travel blog, you already have a wealth of information to draw upon.
We stayed at the same hotel as before, the New Hotel, and took the same bus from the airport, the X95. Despite Monday morning traffic, we arrived at the hotel and checked in at 10 am.
After a short rest, we set out to explore the Agora and several other archaeological sites before ascending the Acropolis in the early afternoon.
Although it was the offseason, the major sites were still crowded. However, the weather was sunny and warm (not scorching like during the summer) and the crowds didn’t bother us too much.
We spent about five hours walking around the city, and memories of my previous trip with Tanya slowly returned.
By the time we came back to the hotel around 4 pm, Greg was exhausted and fell asleep immediately. Later, we ordered souvlaki “to go” from Savaas restaurant for a modest price of eight euros for two people, and enjoyed our meal on the hotel balcony.
Our next destination was Peloponnese Peninsula.
The Peloponnese (), Peloponnesus (; Greek: Πελοπόννησος, romanized: Pelopónnēsos, (IPA: [peloˈponisos]), or Morea is a peninsula and geographic region in southern Greece. It is connected to the central part of the country by the Isthmus of Corinth land bridge which separates the Gulf of Corinth from the Saronic Gulf. From the late Middle Ages until the 19th century the peninsula was known as the Morea (Medieval Greek: Μωρέας), (Morèas) a name still in colloquial use in its demotic form (Greek: Μωριάς), (Moriàs).
Day 2 – Delphi
Our hotel room in Athens faced a busy road, so despite being tired, Greg and I had trouble falling asleep. Eventually, earplugs helped me get some rest.
For breakfast, we had pies from ΑΡΙΣΤΟΝ ΛΟΜΠΟΤΕΣΗ and caught the same X95 bus to pick up a rental car at the airport. I was worried that traffic would be worse due to the subway and train strike, but getting out of the city wasn’t bad.
We drove for over two hours to Delphi. The road was initially dull but became more interesting as we got off the highway and started climbing. The clouds were ominously dark, and we went through patches of pouring rain. It was still raining when we reached Delphi, but the skies cleared immediately when we got out of the car.
We arrived at the gate of the archaeological site an hour before it closed, which was the best time to see it without crowds. We saw dozens of tour buses leaving just as we were starting our ascent to the sanctuary.
I have to say, Delphi sanctuary is now my favorite historical place in Greece, excluding the beautiful beaches of Naxos because they fall into a different category. Ancient ruins surrounded by beautiful mountains have a unique charm. The steep path leading up to the stadium, the Sacred Way, is appropriately named. The stadium itself was a bit underwhelming after a tough hike, but the Temple of Apollo made Greg and me pause and just stand there, saying nothing, for a while.
We were fortunate to see the ruins without too many people interfering with the experience. A couple of tour groups were still lingering there, taking pictures and being loud, but they couldn’t ruin it for us.
We managed to see everything in an hour, and after the main site closed, we went to see the Temple of Athena, which was about 10 minutes down the road.
Our hotel, Pitho, was only a five-minute drive from the site. We were met by a nice couple who owns it, and they pointed us in the direction of EPIKOUROS Restaurant, right across the street. We read that most restaurants in Delphi close for Mediterranean fiesta until 6 pm, but that turned out to be a myth. We had a nice table with a view of the valley. Greg had oven-roasted goat, which was better than my veal with local pasta. Both meals were tasty, though. They also gave us a complimentary chocolate cake, which was amazing.
After dinner, we wanted to go for a leisurely walk, so I looked up a short hike on All Trails and saw the 1.2-mile Delphi Ruins Overlook trail. It was classified as easy. Well, maybe for the goats it would be easy.
We had to climb a bunch of steps and then go up and down before we reached the outlook with a view of the stadium and other ruins we saw earlier in the day. In the end, the hike was worth it, and we made it back to the hotel just before the wind picked up.
Day 3 – Drive to Olympia
The original plan was to get up early so we can get to Olympia before the archeological site closes at 3pm (off-peak hours). Two obstacles prevented us from executing this perfect plan. First, Greg was sleeping so peacefully that I couldn’t make myself wake him up. Second, when I came down for breakfast, I knew that it deserved a proper sit-down. Plus, George, the owner was so nice that we ended up talking for a while. He also gave us some recommendations to stop on the way so we could break up our almost 4 hours drive.
We left the hotel around 10am and headed down the winding path to the sea.
The views changed from mountains to the blue expanse of water surrounded by cliffs, beach towns, and endless fields. We were glad not to have to hurry. The roads were almost empty, but when we did see cars, I pulled to the right to let them pass. This is a custom in Greece. Even on a one-lane road, the drivers of slower cars or trucks would pull to the right off the road to let more anxious and hurried people pass them by. I passed a few cars later when we were getting closer to Olympia and I was ready to be done with this drive.
About 2 hours into our drive, we entered Nafpaktos, which is a sizable beach town right before Rion-Antirion Bridge. George recommended that we visit the castle, and Google Maps took us through the town until the road started to climb up at a steep angle. It also became more and more narrow until we came head to head with a tour bus, which was coming down. I had no idea how I was able to navigate this road, but I had to turn around because this was the only way to get out of this situation. After that, we lost interest in the castle (we saw it from below, much safer that way) and drove to the water.
We walked along the beach to the old harbor, protected by the Venetian wall with two watch towers.
There is also a monument to Cervantes to commemorate the participation of this great novelist in the sea battle of Nafpaktos, also known as the battle of Lepanto. This battle took place in October 1571 and was decisive in putting an end to Turkish naval supremacy. Cervantes took a few bullets and lost an arm.
The town was almost empty, but the restaurants were open with mostly locals hanging out, drinking wine, and smoking. We had fish for lunch at one of the unremarkable places on the beach. When I say “fish”, it was just that, a whole fish with some lemons. Simple, but tasty. We could do without secondhand smoke, however.
After some rest, we continued toward Olympia, but before crossing the bridge over the Gulf of Corinth, we stopped at the imposing Antirrio Lighthouse inside another fort with great views.
After the bridge, the road was somewhat boring as we were going through fields of olive trees and strawberries. Google Maps offered a shortcut, but I was warned about the shortcuts through the mountains, which end up being longer due to poor road conditions. At least the road was well-paved and straight. Greg took a nap, and I practiced illegal passing (is it illegal if everyone is doing it?).
We arrived at Bacchus Pension in the late afternoon, had dinner at the tavern (same hotel), and called it a day.
Day 4 – Olympia and Nafplio
I was proud of Greg for getting up on time. Shortly after 9am, we were standing in front of the Olympia Archeological Site, ready to dive into the history of the Ancient Olympic Games. Despite the early hour, we weren’t going to be diving by ourselves – a few school groups had the same idea, or rather their restless teachers did.
As always, we were armed with Rick Steve’s book, which provided relevant commentary about every significant ruin, toppled column, and pedestal without a statue to go with it. The few remaining statues from the site are on display at the museum, which we didn’t visit, continuing our proud family tradition of cultural ignorance. Just kidding. The day was just too nice to be stuck inside looking at a torso without a head or any limbs.
We did learn a lot about the games. First, only men could compete. Also, only men could attend (about 40,000 of them every four years). Women had their own games, also every four years but at different times. Second, the Ancient Greeks managed to hold almost 400 games before they were shut down by the Christians who didn’t want a bunch of naked men running around like maniacs. Speaking of running, the first games had only one event – running the length of the stadium. The second time they introduced a big innovation – running out and back, two stadium lengths. Since the public reacted positively, the organizers got really bold and started throwing in other sports like disc throwing, boxing, etc. The rest is history. Literally.
We visited the said stadium, and I even posed for a picture at the starting line.
We were surprised that only one youngster ran the race while the crowd cheered. I would have expected more show-offs, but I think most of the schools were from the UK, so there you have it.
Greg and I were trying to decide whether we liked Olympia better than Delphi. These places are too different, however. Olympia is much bigger and feels genuinely ancient, run-down but in a good way. Delphi is more majestic with its mountain surroundings and better-preserved temples. We were glad to have visited both.
The drive to Nafplio took us about 3 hours, but it was easy, mostly on the flat toll roads after I managed to convince Google Maps that a shortcut through the mountains wasn’t my preference. You have to give the AI lady points for trying. She tried very hard, until finally giving up and letting me take a longer (distance) route. On the way, Greg and I talked about life, the universe, and everything, so the time flew by quickly.
In Nafplio, we stayed at Pension Marianna, which was recommended by everyone (Rick Steve’s, Bookings.com, and random travel bloggers). The Pension Marianna is perched almost at the top of the town, just a few steps from one of the three Venetian castles.
The reviews warned about difficulty with parking, but we emailed ahead and confirmed that we should park at the abandoned hotel just up the hill from the hotel. This sounds a bit sketchy, and the abandoned hotel is truly a spooky place with graphite and everything. It is unclear why this hotel is abandoned, to begin with. It has a breathtaking view of the entire city and the water beyond. It is close to everything (including a public beach just down the steps). This is a complete mystery.
After checking in, we went exploring. Our first stop was the Fortress of Akronauplía, just a few steps from the hotel. The views from the walls are amazing, and we snapped dozens of pictures. It is also very easy to fall down if you come too close to the edge. Of course, there are no signs or safety ropes, so one has to use common sense. We saw only a couple of people up there, but they were not using their common sense for sure.
From the top, we saw a cute pebble beach, and we headed there next. The weather was warm and sunny, but it was still April, so we were surprised to see people sunbathing. A few brave souls even went swimming.
There is a nice stone path which goes along the water to the city center. It took us only about 15 minutes to reach the harbor.
From there, we did an obligatory Rick Steve’s city walk, which included a very tasty gelato and the world’s only Worry Beads museum (we didn’t go in). The old town is very compact, easily walkable and has every small shop imaginable. There are squares with imposing churches and government buildings and even two former masques (now a conference center and a school).
When we completed our city walk, we realized that we were once again just minutes away from the beach, so that is where we spent the rest of the day, relaxing and watching the waves. We topped our day with dinner at the recommended restaurant – Pidalio Tavern. The food there was so good! We would be coming back here again.
Day 5 – Day trip to Mycenae, more Nafplio
When I spoke with Tanya the night before, she reminded me not to miss breakfast, which Pension Marianna is known for. The breakfast was indeed plentiful and with a good variety of homemade pies, jams, yogurt, etc. Greg even joked that great food was becoming our expectation. What are we going to think in the future about continental breakfast at Hampton Inn?
The short trip to Mycenae was our day’s doze of Ancient Greek history. Mycenae is a remarkable archaeological site located less than 30 minutes from Nafplio. It is home to some of the most significant archaeological discoveries in Greek history, including the Lion Gate, the Palace of Agamemnon, and the Treasury of Atreus.
Visiting Mycenae is like stepping back in time to the Bronze Age. As you walk through the ancient ruins, you can almost hear the echoes of the Mycenaean people who once lived and ruled there. Of course, you soon realize that what you actually hear is the annoying chatter of the school kids on a mandatory history field trip. These school groups are everywhere! Yet, even they can’t ruin the moment as you stand in front of the imposing Lion Gate, the entrance to the citadel, a symbol of the power and prestige of the Mycenaean civilization. Note, that this civilization existed over a thousand years BEFORE Ancient Greece. Mycenaeans were a mystery to Greeks, in fact. They ruled the world for hundreds of years and then disappeared without a trace.
The palace of Agamemnon (famous king and general from the Trojan War, who probably didn’t exist), with its grand hall and impressive fortifications, is a testament to the engineering prowess of the Mycenaeans. The Treasury of Atreus, a remarkable tomb with a massive beehive-shaped dome, is a testament to their architectural skills. It is hard to believe that people with no heavy equipment could lift these huge stones and arrange them with such precision.
The museum on the site contains numerous artifacts from the excavations, including pottery, jewelry, and weapons. It is very compact, so we made an exception to visit it.
When we returned to Nafplio, our next activity was the climb to the Fortress of Palamidi. This impressive fortress is perched atop a hill overlooking the city, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding area. The fortress itself is a stunning example of Venetian military architecture, with its walls, bastions, and towers perfectly preserved. We left the car near the beach and started our accent on the steep 1000-step stairwell. The hotel owner told us that the hike should take only 15 minutes, well, Greeks must be very fit. I didn’t time us, but we took a bit longer.
Of course, there were more school kids on top, delivered to the castle by bus. Luckily, the fortress is huge, so we quickly left the hordes behind to explore further corners and bastions. I wouldn’t want to be a soldier, who is sent to attack this fortress (I wouldn’t want to be a soldier, period, but this would be a sure suicide mission).
After a quick lunch break back at the hotel, we hiked Palamidi Path (6 km one way), which runs along the seashore under the fortress and connects several beaches. We ended up spending the entire afternoon hanging out at Nepali Beach, which is right next to the rock climbing area. The water was cold, but I did manage a quick swim. We read, watched some crazy people climbing vertical walls, and just relaxed.
The day ended with dinner at Arapakos restaurant, which was recommended by the hotel staff. We had the catch of the day with grilled vegetables and stopped by the ice cream shop after. We deserved a good meal and some extra calories with all the day’s hiking.
Day 6 – Epidaurus
On the following day, we made our way to Epidaurus, which is only a short 30-minute drive from Nafplio. Our main objective was to visit the famous ancient Greek theater, known for being the most well-preserved of over 300 ancient theaters in the country.
The theater was built in the 4th century BC by the architect Polykleitos the Younger and could seat up to 14,000 spectators. Its primary use was for performances of ancient Greek plays, written by renowned playwrights such as Aeschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides. After being abandoned during the Roman period, the theater was rediscovered in the 19th century and has since been restored to its former glory, where it now hosts performances once again.
As we sat on the ancient stone seats, we imagined the countless individuals who had sat in the same place before us to watch performances thousands of years ago. The acoustics of the theater were phenomenal, allowing us to hear every whisper and footstep on stage from our seats. It was astounding to think that such a magnificent structure was constructed without the help of modern technology.
As we explored the rest of the Epidaurus site, I couldn’t help but think of how unique each place we had visited so far had been. At the start of our trip, I had worried that we would become tired of visiting ruins, much like we had with medieval castles in the past. However, that has not been the case so far. Each site had its own distinct history, magic, and significance, which you could only truly feel when you were there.
Prior to our visit to Epidaurus, I had no idea that it was a major healing center where people would come from all over Greece to get better. Although I must admit, I wouldn’t want to be treated with the medical instruments we saw at the museum, especially not without anesthesia, which had yet to be invented.
After our time at Epidaurus, we returned to Nafplio and stopped by the Saturday market for some shopping. The market had a variety of fruits and vegetables, and we bought strawberries, pears, and apples to supplement our mostly fish, pies, and meat diet.
We spent the remainder of the day at the beach near our hotel, reading our books and watching the waves.
Day 7 – Mystras
Since we ran out of places to see in close proximity to Nafplio, I asked our nice hotel owner for a recommendation. “You have to go see Mystras,” he answered, “It is…” And he gestured as if trying to find words, but failing. Instead, he just repeated, “Mystras. Very nice.” That sealed our plans.
Mystras is a fortified town located about 1 hour and 45 minutes from Nafplio. The town is just a few kilometers outside of Sparta, which sounds exciting given the importance of Sparta in Ancient Greece. However, there is absolutely nothing to see in Sparta, which is a cautionary tale about the legacy left after a purely military society. Mystras, on the other hand, is a place worth visiting.
The town was once a Byzantine capital, and most of the buildings and churches are unmistakably from that era. Founded in the 13th century by William II of Villehardouin, it quickly became a center of trade, culture, and religion. The town was later conquered by the Byzantine Empire and was expanded during the 14th and 15th centuries. Mystras was home to several churches, monasteries, and palaces, and it served as a center of learning and art.
After the fall of Constantinople in 1453, Mystras continued to thrive under Ottoman rule until it was abandoned in the 19th century. Today, Mystras is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which allows local authorities to charge 12 euros per person admission (just kidding, with so much to see, this is not that much money).
We arrived at Mystras site in the early afternoon and had to navigate a tricky road down the narrow streets and then up the hill. We were stuck behind a couple of huge tour buses, which were conducting precise maneuvers all the way to the parking lot while moving at the speed of a very, very slow turtle. We finally gave up, parked at the restaurant just below the entrance, and hiked up.
From the moment we walked through the imposing gates, the rain began to pour down heavily, and it kept going while we were there.
While getting wet was annoying, it added to the charm of walking on the winding paths and being transported back in time to a world of Byzantine palaces and ornate churches. We didn’t make it all the way up to the impressive fortress, perched on the highest point of the hill, but we could feel its presence every time looked around.
We loved exploring the intricately decorated churches with faded frescos, especially since they offered us a temporary sanctuary from the rain. At the Monastery of Pantanassa, which was founded in the 15th century and has been an important spiritual center ever since, we saw the nuns, who still live there. We were struck by the peaceful and serene atmosphere inside the monastery walls. And then a tour group showed up…
Despite the rain, we didn’t regret driving almost 2 hours one way to visit Mystras. We were captivated by the town’s rich history and stunning views, which were made even more mysterious by the dark clouds clinging to the mountainside.
On the way back to Nafplio, the rain stopped as it had never been there. Before dinner, we spent a few hours reading at the beach near the hotel. It was Sunday, the second day of Ramadan, and we heard beautiful singing coming from one of the mosques. Then clouds parted, and the sun came out washing the town’s red roofs in the soft orange glow.
Day 8 – Rest and going back to Athens
We never plan anything major for the last day of vacation. This is the day to rest before coming back to the craziness of our normal lives. The weather forecast called for more rain later in the day, so we used a few dry hours in the morning to run down to town for some last-minute souvenir shopping. When we got back, the rain was still holding off its entrance, so we stopped by the beach to skip some stones on the unusually calm water.
After lunch, we headed to Athens, where we were going to spend a night near the airport to catch a morning flight back to the US.
On the way there, we stopped to see Corinth Canal, which separates the Peloponnese peninsula from mainland Greece. I read about it but didn’t expect to be so impressed.
The idea of constructing a canal dates back to ancient times. However, it wasn’t until the 19th century that the construction of the canal began. The project was led by several individuals and companies, but it faced several challenges, including financial difficulties and technical issues. The canal was finally completed in 1893, and it is 6.3 kilometers long and 21.3 meters wide. It played a significant role in the transportation of goods and people between the Aegean and the Ionian seas, and it also had strategic importance during both World Wars. Today, the Corinth Canal is a popular tourist destination and a place for bungee jumping, or so the sign on the bridge says.
We hit rush hour traffic going through Athens on the way to our last hotel Double M Athens Airport. For only $55, we had two rooms and a kitchen all for ourselves. This is a great place to spend the night before the flight.
We had a great time in Greece and used this opportunity not only to rest but also to learn about the history and about life in this beautiful country. Greg and I had many long discussions while driving between places, and this was an added bonus for this trip.